An RVer's rite of passage: Visiting Wall Drug!
We were really in the thick of RV problems. Just days after repairing our generator and getting a brand new water pump, we found ourselves without any power in our trailer. Our batteries were acting like they had been totally discharged, and they didn't have enough juice to even run our 12V system, let alone anything more energy-intensive. So there we were in the dark, literally and figuratively, because we had no idea what was going on.
We've been noticing a pattern. The last time we had camped without hookups, our generator started acting faulty, and so we decided to not risk it. We booked a full hookup campsite at an RV park for the next day. That following morning, as we were packing up to leave, our water pump died. We could have been really stressed out by this development, but instead we just thanked our lucky stars that we were already booked to go somewhere with water hookups.
This time, it happened again. We were in the Black Hills and planned to head east, toward the town of Wall, SD. Wall is known for two things: A giant "drug store" and Badlands National Park. And when RVers think Badlands, they think "The Rim." This is what we RVers call the Buffalo Gap/Nomad View dispersed camping area. You might also hear it called "The Wall," but whatever term you use, RVers know what you're referring to. It's in a National Grassland and overlooks the Badlands, and it is known to be one of the most scenic places to dispersed camp in all the country. We hadn't had the best luck with dispersed camping in the past, and even just plain dry camping was proving difficult, but we had our hearts set on camping on The Rim. The only problem is, you're camping on a cliffside, totally exposed to the elements. It's windy in the best of times, rocking all the rigs off-kilter in the worst of times. During storms, the dirt road turns to clay. RVs have been known to get stuck and need winching out of the mud.
The day before we were set to leave the Black Hills and head towards Wall, I looked at the forecast and saw that a big thunderstorm was rolling through on Tuesday, the day after we would arrive. Expected wind gusts up to 55mph in downtown Wall, which is like 20 million on The Rim. We made the choice to book a site at the RV park in Wall, Sleepy Hollow Campground, just to be safe. We booked until Wednesday, hoping we'd wait out the storm and then move onto the Grassland for the remainder of the week.
You know where this story is going. That evening was when our batteries started acting up. By nightfall, we were losing power fast, and a few hours later, everything was dead. Again, we thanked our lucky stars that we had already booked a full hookup site for the next day, because if we were planning on boondocking, we would be in big trouble.
Only problem was, we still didn't know if we'd be able to get electricity at all, even from shore power. We weren't about to drive the hour and a half to Wall without knowing if we could actually stay in our campsite, which is why we went looking for a pedestal on our way out of the campground. We covered that story in the last post. Thankfully, we got our electric to run off shore power, so we felt comfortable heading to Wall.
During this whole debacle, I said to Anthony something I never thought I'd hear myself say: "If I make it to Wall Drug today, I'll consider it a good day." This giant "drug store" was suddenly a coveted goal, and once we realized we were able to head to our campsite, I was over the moon. Wall Drug, here we come!
You're probably wondering, is Wall Drug really that amazing, or was I just crossing my fingers that we'd be able to do anything? I guess a little of both. Wall Drug has become a roadtripper's rite of passage; you travel on I-90 between Sioux Falls and Rapid City, and there's not much going on. Wall Drug is the place to stop and get provisions. It has lots of parking, including RV/truck parking, and is basically its own strip mall. You can't travel this stretch of the interstate without seeing hundreds of signs and billboards. In fact, on our way out from Rapid City, we estimated that there was a Wall Drug sign every 1/5 of a mile. The signs advertise the 5-cent coffee, the homemade donuts and ice cream, the book store, the shooting gallery, and more. As you can see, it's much more than pharmaceuticals.
The signs pay homage to the Husteads, the founders of the store. Back in the 1930s, husband-and-wife team Ted and Dorothy Hustead were on the brink of losing their fledgling business. Wall Drug had been open for 5 years and was not doing well. Dorothy had the idea to plant signs in busier parts of the state, alerting travelers to their store and the thirst-quenching amenities it carries. Also Dorothy's idea was to offer free ice water as an incentive. Not only did this campaign work, but it allowed the Husteads to network with other South Dakotans as they bargained to get their signs up - always with permission - on people's land. It didn't just stop there. Over time, Wall Drug signs could be found beyond South Dakota, and even beyond the USA. Do people in London really need to know that it's 5,160 miles away? No, but they found out anyway if they saw the sign! It's quite the story of tenacity, and now Wall Drug is a mecca for travelers, still family-owned by the Husteads who are carrying on Ted and Dorothy's legacy.
Even that brief history is kitschy, and so is the whole store. The overall vibe is country and rustic, with lots of wood and a mish-mash of old-timey décor. The one place that does not match this vibe is the chapel, which is adorably quaint and classy.
After we settled into our site at Sleepy Hollow, we ventured over to Wall Drug and popped into most of the stores. There are lots of souvenir shops, art galleries, the bookstore (where the publishing company that my dad used to work for actually sold books to), toy stores, and - in case you're curious - yes, there is in fact a drug store tucked in there somewhere. Beyond the stores are the chapel, restaurant, an arcade, photo portrait studios, and the new backyard which has a few historical displays, a splash pad, a water station, and the (in)famous jackelope that you can climb. It's a must for a photo opportunity.
We partook in the free ice water out back. We wish we hadn't. We saw lots of people take one swig and dump the rest. It was very off-tasting and not worth the price. But when it's South Dakota summer and the heat is hot, any water is better than no water at all. On the day we went, it was only in the mid-90s. Ah, how perspectives can change after a night without air conditioning. The words "but did you die?" come to mind.
After perusing the shops, we stopped in the café for an early dinner. It's rated mediocre on Google, but what do people expect, Ruth's Chris? We ordered some grub. Anthony got a chicken sandwich with fries and I got a chicken tenders basket with onion rings. We split a donut because we had to try one, despite them not looking great. It was average. Anthony rates his meal average as well. As for my chicken basket, I actually thought it was above average. Clearly food they just buy from a wholesaler and fry up, but the chicken was tender and had no grizzle. The onion rings were thick, juicy, and beer-battered. Neither of us was expecting much, so this was all we could ask for.
After dinner, we went over to the Soda Fountain, where they serve homemade ice cream. Well, the hard ice cream is homemade. They also have generic soft serve. Not a ton of flavors to choose from, so I went classic with a scoop of vanilla and some hot fudge on top. The hot fudge was legit. None of that syruppy grossness. I appreciated that. As for the vanilla, I've had better and I've had worse. Unfortunately the flavor of my ice cream doesn't matter when I found a broken piece of plastic in my dish. Perhaps part of a spoon? Anthony got cherry nut ice cream with hot fudge and raspberry sauce. His ice cream was very flavorful, but of course had that artificial flavor essence.
And with that, our afternoon at Wall Drug had come to an end, and we headed back to our campsite.
Reviews of Wall Drug often say "Don't go out of your way for it." Well duh! That's the whole point of this place! It's for passersby. That said, its worth going when you're in the area because it's an attraction. Even if you find everything weird or junky, you need to give props to Dorothy Hustead and her marketing prowess. She took this local drug store and put it on the map! It's a great place to shop local and support a family-owned business. While you're there, be sure to also walk up and down Main St. Believe it or not, there are a few other stores and restaurants downtown.
Perhaps this is a place that people love to hate...or maybe hate to love? Either way, Wall Drug is authentic. I say, don't hate on something that's just being unabashedly itself. As we were walking through the store, I said to Anthony, "People come for the free water but they stay for the kitsch." And that kitsch, you just gotta embrace it. It's a roadtripper's right and privilege.